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NAZA V2 Guide For Dummies. I’ve done quite a lot of model making in my past, but building a multicopter was also completely new to me, so I’m trying to show & tell all the “noobs” like me out there how to set- up the NAZA V2 control system and or try to explain certain tripwires you could fall to, like I did in building / setting it up. This guide covers: – Soldering information, based on the F5. ESC + engine connections– Flight system installation, wiring, placement and configuration– GPS calibration– Propellers + installation– Landing gear installation– Some LED fun– Gimbal mount + setup– Video transmitter installation and setup. I’m flying my drone with a Graupner MX- 2. GHz Ho. TT remote using the Graupner GR- 2.

Ho. TT receiver. I would recommend a 1. The basic channel control’s (needed / recommended): Yaw. Pitch. Roll. Throttle. Microsoft Ad Song I Wanna Be Free. Manual / ATTI / ATTI + GPS (if the module is purchased)3 way switch for Flight mode change: Off / Course Lock / Home Lock. Failsafe. Rotary knobs for in- flight gain control (changing the gains on how fast or slow the drone should react on stick movements . LED port houses the flight LED / USB port, the PMU is the power distribution unit .

More information (links): * Helicopter Setups Downloads The 3SX is a high-quality, compact designed Flybarless system (Rigid) and replaces the mechanical flybar on. I've done quite a lot of model making in my past, but building a multicopter was also completely new to me, so I'm trying to show & tell you.Read more. As the largest division in the Georgia Department of Community Health, the Medical Assistance Plans Division administers the Medicaid and PeachCare for Kids. ABS filament,3mm,green,1kg/roll 2.2LB Spool for RepRap, Makerbot, Afinia, FlashForge and 3D printers 1/10 Brushed On-Road Cars 51C803 Exceed 1/10th Electric RC Truck.

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My ESC’s feature 3 bullet type connectors per engine and now here’s the tricky part: the ESC’s are upside down but the engines are facing upwards so now you have to think a little ahead: 3 engines have to rotate clockwise. So the simple rule: Engines turning clockwise are connected like that: Middle connector to the middle connector, left ESC connector to the right engine cable and right ESC connector to the left engine cable. Engines turning counter clockwise: Since our ESC’s are upside down they are connected straight forward: middle to the middle, right to the righ and left to the left connector. That’s not so hard isn’t it? Well if it would be easy, it wouldn’t get more confusing then this: I’m using Graupner E- Prop propellers, you need according to the engines 3 clockwise and 3 counter clockwise prop’s, now there’s something special with Graupner E- Prop’s due to the fact that they are meant for airplanes, Graupner keeps telling the rotating direction as seen from the cockpit of a plane and not as seen while looking at the blade itself. So the “L” labelled ones (for LEFT(rotating) actually rotate to the right and the ones without special labeling are rotating to the left. So you have to attach the “L’s” to the clockwise rotating engines and the non labeled ones to the counter clockwise ones.

Real easy to understand for a “noob” isn’t it? When we’re done with attaching the propellers it’s time to get our receiver hooked up with the NAZA’s main unit. There are 3 ways to do this: Traditional wiring. Digital over the humming feature using the DBUS (AFAIK Robbe / Futaba / Hi. Tec) or PPM (Graupner) standards. If you’re using a Graupner remote, normally you would use the digital humming signal and only connect one cable to the X2 connector of the NAZA but here’s the tricky part: if your receiver has less then 7 channels you can not use the PPM signal properly due to the fact that one of the 3 way switches controlling the manual / ATTI / ATTI GPS flight mechanics is always mapped to digital channel 7 which is not accessible with only 6 channels.

So after some cursing around I had to switch to traditional wiring and had to connect 6 cables to the appropriate channels on the NAZA, if your receiver, like the Graupner ones doesn’t feature the “nose hooks” of the cables you have to remove the plastic noses of the cables in order to make them fit. Channels used with traditional wiring: D- Bus: PPM: After this you’re ready to attach the top plate of the drone, when you bought the GPS module I used two of the screws of one of the front arms to also secure the base of the GPS module pole, due to the fact that the drilling holes fit the rear 2 screw holes.

When you attach the GPS module to the pole, make sure that the little arrow on the GPS dome also faces to the front / flying direction of the drone (the outgoing cable of the module is the front side). I’ve attached the LED module hanging upside down on the rear side of my drone and secured it loosely with a zip tie to the landing gear to stay in place. Now we’re ready for the fun part, powering it up and attaching it to a computer to set the everything up in the NAZA Assist software. Install the NAZA Assist software, then download the driver package for your system (Win. Win. 8) you can’t install the driver package until your drone is connected and powered up by the flight battery. So plug in your battery to the power cable of the drone and when you see the LED module flashing wildly, connect the USB cable on the lower side of the unit and start the driver installation package.

When he’s finished start the NAZA Assist software and register with DJI, if there is a new firmware available he will notify you about it and start’s updating your flight controller. Now it’s time to set everything up: Click on the tab “Basic” select Aircraft and your type (in my case Hexa. Rotor. V)Click on “Mounting” there enter where your GPS dome is located from the center (as seen in the picture, if its in the front its a positive value, if its more in the back its a negative value, the height calculation of the dome is measured from the baseplate of the drone, not the landing gear!)Click on “RC” and select your wiring type (as described earlier above), now you have to see if all your sticks are moving correctly and are not mirrored in the movement, if so press the REV or NORM button next to the channel icons. Now select “Calibrate” and move all your sticks wildly around between the maximum and minimum positions per axis then click finish and observe that you’re not getting an error message telling you stick’s not in center and every slider should display a green middle position). See if your control mode switches hit the correct marks of the functions you want to use, if it’s not turning blue, you missed the mark and have to adjust the movement range of your channels on your remote until all the stick positions light up your wanted features in blue properly. If you want you can enable the “Receiver advanced protection” which alters the movements after reaching certain heights or distances.

Click on “Gain” I would recommend leaving it to the pre- set values for now. Click on “Advanced” and select “Motor”, I would recommend to leave the idle speed at “Recommended” and set the “Cut Off Type” to “Intelligent”, that way he notices when you’re still in the air and won’t switch off your engines if you move your throttle stick below 1. Click on “F/S” and select your favored failsafe setting, I’ve selected “Go- Home and Landing” (he records his starting position when you got a GPS module installed when he starts and know’s where to return in case a failsafe event occurs)Click on “IOC” and decide if you want to use that feature, I’ve enabled it on my second 3 way switch. I don’t have a Gimbal yet and I’m missing the channels for it so I skipped that menu.

Click on “Voltage” here I’ve selected “Protection Switch” ON, calculating your voltages and warning level’s isn’t easy so I can only go into a little detail here: Don’t try to push your drone to the (battery) limits on the first flight’s, the batteries have to be broken in too and you have to learn how much power your drone draws while flying, to get a feeling when you have to get back or land (you can calculate that when you keep track of your flight minutes and taking a look at the charger, on how much power he had to put back in after charging). My battery got fully charged around 5. Ah, I was flying for 1. Ah so I was on the edge of an emergency landing. Click on “Tools” here you can calibrate the internal Gyroscope and Barometer and other internal sensors, I would recommend to at least run the basic calibration the first time it’s powered on.

Transmitter battery packs. TRANSMITTER BATTERIES           for R/C hobby equipment. Click on any other category below for quick access: Battery Packs, connectors, & more: List Price: $5. You Save: $2. 0. 0. ELCO female: White Charging Connector for Hi. TEC TX packs. Plug your Hi. TEC TX pack. (the kind with the small square White 2- Pin end) into this Female/Receptacle.

Custom Charging applications. Includes wire leads. List Price: $5. 5. You Save: $2. 5. 0. The # JRWht. Chg is a TX Charging Connector with wire leads. Use this for direct.

JR- 2 type battery packs and SPEKTRUM battery packs (the ones with. White conn) in custom- charging applications.

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Ah Ni- Cd. 1. 65. Ah Ni- MH, 2. 00. Ah ENELOOP Ni- MH. Connector is $3 extra. List Price: $3. 9. You Save: $1. 6. 0.

TX- Square. 9. 6: 9. SQUARE Transmitter Battery Packs. Choose Capacity (Ni- Cd and Ni- MH. Wire Leads or specific Connector ($3 extra). Pricing starts at. Net pricing reflects options chosen.

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DX4. 8. Eneloop : 4. Ni. MH battery packs for Spektrum DX7s, DX8, & DX9. PRE- CHARGED & READY TO USE. Choose eneloop 2. Ah or eneloop pro. Ah capacity. 2. 00. Ah is $2. 5. 0. 0, 2.

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SALE - 2. 50. 0m. Ah are $2. 5. 9. 5 each. Ah are $3. 2. 9. 5. List Price: $4. 2. You Save: $1. 6. 0. List Price: $4. 5. You Save: $1. 4. 5.

HRAULAF: 6 volt 2. Ah rechargeable Ni.

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Hi. TEC Optic Sport TX battery - 7. Ni. MH pack, with connector. Pricing starts at $3. List Price: $4. 5. You Save: $1. 2. 0. X2. 00. 0W : 7. 2v 2. Ah ENELOOP battery for Hi.

TEC Aurora 9. X transmitter. PRE- CHARGED. and READY TO USE ! List Price: $5. 0. You Save: $1. 7. 0. NH6. N- 1. 50. 0S: 7. Ni- MH rechargeable battery pack for AIRTRONICS SD- 1.

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FG. T1. 2FGA/H. Replaces HT6. F1. 70. 0B. Includes connector.

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Neon, Focus 3 FM, Focus 3 AM, Lynx AM, Lynx FM. List Price: $6. 5. You Save: $2. 9. 0. SPM9. 52. 1: 9. 6v Ni. MH battery for SPEk. TRUM RC transmitters. Choose capacity. Square.

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Sky Taranis Tx. Choose capacity. List Price: $6. 9. You Save: $2. 9. 0. S4. 00. 0DX8. PCM : 7.

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V style Tip Clip conn. Pricing reflects options chosen. List Price: $5. 5. You Save: $1. 3. 0. X2. 55. 0EX : 7. 2volt 2. Ah Eneloop Pro Ni. MH battery for Hi.

TEC Aurora 9x. Made with. Ah eneloop pro batteries. Arrives to you PRE- CHARGED and READY TO USE. These. eneloop Ni- MH batteries retain their charge when not in use.

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Re- charges in. SPEk. TRUM Tx, OR with external smart balance chargers as well. List Price: $8. 0.

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You Save: $1. 3. 0. Microsoft Word Show Line Numbers on this page. Kraft 5. C transmitter battery pack: 4. Ah Ni- Cd rechargeable .

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Ah eneloop. model shown. Includes. Hi. TEC white ELCO. Re- charge with Ni- MH Smart Chargers)List $3. Your price $3. 2. BUY7. 2 volt  2. 50. Ah  LONG- LIFE. HR- 3.

U2. 50. 0 cells & Hi. TEC. white ELCO connector.

Re- charge with Ni- MH Smart Chargers)List $ 4. Your price $ 3. 5. BUY7. 2 volt  2. 70. Ah  LONG- LIFE. HR- 3.

U2. 70. 0 cells & Hi. TEC. white ELCO connector. Re- charge with Ni- MH Smart Chargers)List $ 4. Your price $ 3. 9.

BUY7. 2 volt 2. 55. Ah. w/ eneloop Pro cells. PRE- CHARGED & READY TO. USE. BUYNEW ITEMS - Batteries for Hi. TEC AURORA 9x. transmitter.

Your price $3. 2. BUY7. 2 volt  2. 50. Ah  LONG- LIFE. HR- 3.

U2. 50. 0 cells. Your price $ 3. BUY7. 2 volt  2. 70. Ah  LONG- LIFE. HR- 3. U2. 70. 0 cells. Your price $ 3. BUY7. 2 volt 2. 55. Ah w/ eneloop Pro.

PRE- CHARGED & READY TO USE. BUY. TRANSMITTER PACK SALETRANSMITTER BATTERY PACKS FOR YOUR. GROUND- BASED CONTROLLERS.

Packs include leads; CONNECTORS ARE AVAILABLE - for $ 3. Made with premium- quality. SANYO brand Ni. Cd. Ni- MH cells. Choose the.

Futaba, JR, HITEC, and. AIRTRONICS 3- pin connectors are available installed for $3. Also. OLD Futaba 2- Pin ( NT- 8. H ). (NT- 8. JY), JR 2- Pin (black . However, their RECEIVER packs have DIFFERENT.

NEW FEATURE !! JR- 1 battery. Square style with Black . Pack style: 3x. 3x. BUYNote: some Futaba catalogs shows a.

C transmitter page. This is an INCORRECT visual reference!

For SQUARE packs. BUYIf you aren't sure which connector your. XP- 8. 10. 3 battery packs have, PLEASE CHECK THEM !

JR. Mating charge connector for JR 2- pin Black connector above. Has 8. BUYJR PROPO. SPEKTRUM2- pin Flat White TX connector.

OEM battery pack model # JR- 2. NOW IN STOCK ! Connector w/ leads: $ 3. BUYJR PROPO. SPEKTRUM CHARGING connector for 2- pin Flat White TX connector. BUYHi. TEC. Charging end (not pictured; has wire.